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- PrimoPyro1990
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-
-
-
- ... Shotgun Loads ...
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-
- DISCLAIMER: This file contains information on making devices which are
- illegal or harmful. Neither the BBS carrying this file nor its
- author can be considered responsible for making this
- information available. This file is intended to educate only.
-
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-
- The shotgun is a versatile weapon in that it can fire a variety of loads.
- These ideas are meant for 12 ga. weapons :
-
- Hard Shot: If you have to penetrate safety glass with a shotgun blast open
- up the crimp of the shell. Empty it of the shot and refill it with the same
- weight of ball bearings. The bearings should be 3/16" - 3/8" in dia. You'll
- find that this load can penetrate up to 2 thicknesses of auto safety glass.
- Watch out for ricochets though.
-
- Flechette Load: Flechettes are simply small darts. Obtain some .035" music
- wire from a hobby store. Cut the wire into pieces about 1 1/2" long. Sharpen
- one end of each piece of wire, rough up the other end.
- Coat the rough end of the wires with epoxy. When the first coat of epoxy is
- dry add another. Keep this up until there is a small ball of epoxy on one
- end like a hatpin. This is the fin end. Reload a shell with these darts
- making sure that the darts do not exceed the shotweight that was originally
- in the shell.
- You may find these darts can penetrate a bullet-proof vest at close range.
- The darts lose velocity very fast so this is mainly for close range work.
-
- Teargas Shell: Fill a small plastic bag with capstun oil and heat seal the
- open end of the bag. Reload the shell with the bag instead of shot.
- When the gun is fired, it will make cloud of capstun with a range of about
- 20 ft. After you use this load be sure to clean the bore of the weapon good.
-
- Hardball Load: It's been reported that SWAT uses a special load in their
- shotguns to help gain entrance to a house. The shells are loaded with hard
- ceramic balls that can shatter door hinges. This idea has not been tried but
- maybe an aluminum oxide,fiberglass, and epoxy projectile could be made that
- has a similar effect
-
- Aerial Shell: To make an aerial shell load you will need a cardboard tube
- 1 1/4" long and with a 5/8" O.D.. The walls should be about 3/32" thick. Roll
- this tube with an absolute minimun of white glue. Coat the tube with epoxy
- and let it soak into the tube. Repeat this when the first coat is almost dry.
- After the second coat is dry, insert a cardboard disk 1/8" into one end.
- Seal this end with epoxy. When the epoxy hardens drill a hole through the
- seal for a piece of blasting fuse. Cut an 1 1/2" length of fuse and insert it
- 1/2" into the case then epoxy the fuse to the shell. Bend the fuse sticking
- out of the shell against the bottom of the shellcase and epoxy the fuse to
- the case. Do not get epoxy onto the exposed powder at the end of the fuse.
- The fuse will give you about 4 - 5 secs of delay but test the burning time of
- your fuse. Fill the casing half full of 50/50 fine aluminum and potassium
- perchlorate. Do Not Use Chlorates! Now push another cardboard 1/8"disk into
- the open end of the casing and seal it with epoxy. Let the load harden for a
- day or two before use.
- Remove the shot, shotcup, and half the powder from a shotgun shell. Prime the
- fuse with black powder mixed with starch solution. Let the priming dry then
- push the load into the shell on top of the gunpowder. A small amount of
- wadding could be used if it doesn't interfere with ignition of the fuse.
- Close the crimp up or cut off the old crimp and seal the shotgun shell with
- a waterproof cardboard disk held in place with a small amount of silicone
- glue.
- You can try a stronger gunpowder charge if you think your shotgun will handle
- it. Check the burning time of the fuse before using this load. The aluminum/
- perchlorate load is pretty safe to use but it is very spark sensitive.
- Handle with care.
-
- Incendiary Load: If you build a case similar to the aerial shell but instead
- of using an explosive you subtitute a plastic bag of napalm or a charge of
- "GOOP" you can make a fairly effective incendiary projectile. The main draw-
- back is the amount of incendiary material that can be loaded in such a small
- case. A small charge of black powder (1 gm.) can be sealed in the incendiary
- case so that the blasting fuse ignites the powder after a suitable delay.
- The black powder should just be enough to rupture the case without causing
- the napalm to scatter too much. If you are adventerous enough, try sealing
- a small amount of white phosphorous into the casing. WARNING - The phosph-
- orous will ignite spontaneously on contact with air or an oxidizer. For this
- reason it is usually stored under water. I personally cannot recommend this
- substance unless you have a great deal of experience handling phosphorous.
- The burns it inflicts are very painful and slow healing. Particles of WP
- can burn their way through your body. A 5% solution of stearic acid will
- coat the WP and stop its burning. WP is only for the experienced and even
- then handle with the greatest of care.
- GOOP
- --------
- Asphalt 20%
- Heavy Oil 20%
- Potassium Nitrate 30%
- Aluminum Powder 20%
- Sulfur 5%
- Charcoal 5%
- Mix these together well. This is a very easily ignited incendiary that puts
- out a large flame when it burns.
-
- Long Distance Shot: To keep the shot from spreading too quickly, open up the
- shell and empty out the shot. Replace the shot one layer at a time with salt
- or crushed rice filling up the space in between the shot. The powder you use
- isn't important as long as it is fine enough to fill in the airspace between
- the shot. Recrimp the shell and its all done. The shot only spreads about
- 75% as much as a regular shell and is effective at longer ranges.
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- *** Kilroy was here ***